A two-Jyotirlinga trip from Indore costs between roughly ₹1,500 and ₹8,500 per person for two days, depending on whether you ride buses and sleep in a dharamshala or hire a taxi and a hotel near Mahakal. The loop is Indore → Ujjain → Omkareshwar → Indore, about 270 km.
This guide breaks the money into transport, darshan tickets, stay and food, with the real fares behind each line.
Three legs, three very different fares. Ujjain to Omkareshwar is the long one, and it is where the bus Yatri loses half a day.
| Leg | Distance | Bus fare (from) | Bus time | Taxi quote |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Indore → Ujjain | 55 km | ₹63 government, ₹150 AC seater; train ₹15 | about 1 hr 45 min | from about ₹1,300 one way |
| Ujjain → Omkareshwar | about 140 km | ₹200–310 | about 4 hrs | ₹3,600–3,900 sedan, ₹5,500–6,000 Innova (day return) |
| Omkareshwar → Indore | about 78 km | ₹117–150 non-AC, ₹260–312 AC | 2.5–3 hrs | from about ₹1,300 one way |
Add the three bus legs and the loop costs about ₹400 to ₹600 per person, more on festival days when operators raise fares. A sedan for the whole two days lands loosely around ₹6,000 to ₹7,000 before tolls, and splits four ways to roughly the same as an AC bus.
Train Yatris can shave the first leg with the morning MEMU, which leaves Indore around 8:10 and 10:35 for about ₹15. Our Indore Junction to Ujjain train guide has the timings.
The bus timetable has one trap. Omkareshwar to Indore buses run from before dawn to about 8 or 9 pm, but the Ujjain to Omkareshwar services are fewer, and an afternoon departure puts you at the temple inside the 12:20 to 1:15 bhog break.
Both temples let you in for nothing. The money goes on skipping queues and on the aartis, and on a weekday most Yatris need neither.
Mahakaleshwar general darshan: free, through the Mahakal Lok corridor. About an hour on a weekday; 3 to 5 hours on Mondays, weekends and festivals.
Shighra darshan: ₹250 per person at the counters or the temple portal, roughly 45–60 minutes in the queue.
Bhasma aarti: ₹200 per person online, booked 30 days ahead; counter tickets are reported at ₹100 but sell out. Entry at Gate 3 between 3:00 and 3:30 am.
Sandhya and Shayan aarti: online booking at ₹250 per person.
Omkareshwar: general darshan free; Shighra darshan ₹300 on the trust website for a fixed slot.
The free versus paid queue guide for Mahakal explains which slot to buy. A family of four doing both fast queues and one aarti pays about ₹3,000 in tickets, which is often less than the hotel night a long queue forces on you.
Ujjain near the temple has a price band for every budget; Omkareshwar is cheaper but has fewer rooms.
| Town | Budget | Mid | Comfort |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ujjain, within 500 m of Mahakal | ₹800–1,500 | ₹2,000–3,800 | ₹4,000 and up, temple-facing rooms |
| Omkareshwar, within 600 m of the temple | Bhakt Niwas (walk-in); hotels from about ₹1,400 | ₹2,000–2,500 | around ₹4,500 for the resort tier |
Book Ujjain the moment your Bhasma aarti pass comes through; the 4 am walk is the whole point of paying for the location, as the where to stay for Bhasma aarti guide explains. Rooms double in Shravan and around Mahashivratri.
Neither town is expensive to eat in, and both temples feed Yatris. Mahakal's Annakshetra serves free meals through the day, and the lanes around both temples run on thalis, poha and tea.
Plan loosely ₹200 to ₹400 per person per day if you eat in the temple lanes.
A hotel breakfast near Mahakal adds about ₹150–300 a head; skip it on Bhasma aarti morning since you are out at 3 am anyway.
Carry water and a packet of something for the Ujjain–Omkareshwar bus; there is no decent stop for the middle two hours.
Here is how the numbers add up for a Yatri travelling in a group of four, two days, one night.
| Budget line | Bus and dharamshala | Taxi shared by four, mid hotel | Taxi for two, comfort hotel |
|---|---|---|---|
| Transport | ₹500 | about ₹1,700 | about ₹3,500 |
| Darshan and aarti | ₹0–450 | ₹450–750 | ₹750 |
| Stay (one night, share) | ₹400–750 | ₹1,000–1,900 | ₹2,000–3,000 |
| Food | ₹500 | ₹700 | ₹1,000 |
| Total | about ₹1,500–2,200 | about ₹3,900–5,000 | about ₹7,000–8,500 |
The two-day route itself is laid out hour by hour in our two Jyotirlingas from Indore in 2 days itinerary.
With elders: the taxi column. Shighra darshan at both temples and a hotel within 500 m of Mahakal; the bus's 4-hour Omkareshwar leg is the thing to avoid.
On a budget: bus and dharamshala, free queues on a weekday, Bhasma aarti online at ₹200. Travel Tuesday to Thursday and the free queue is an hour.
On a tight schedule: taxi, one day, no hotel. Leave at 4 am and take Omkareshwar after 1:15 pm.
Avoid: a Monday or a long weekend without fast-queue tickets, and the afternoon bus from Ujjain, which reaches Omkareshwar inside the bhog break.
For a two-day loop, sleep in Ujjain. It has the rooms, the Bhasma aarti walk and the morning MEMU back if the car falls through. Pick a hotel within 500 m of the temple in the ₹2,000–3,800 band, and you will walk to Gate 3 at 3 am without a rickshaw.
Omkareshwar makes sense only if you want its evening aarti at Koti Tirth and dawn darshan the next morning. Its hotels are cheaper but fewer, and the Bhakt Niwas does not take advance bookings.
Whichever town you choose, ask for the walking distance to the gate in metres before you book. Rooms described as temple-facing in Ujjain are sometimes facing the shikhar from three streets away.
Count the fares, buy the two fast-queue tickets, and the rest of the money goes where it should: the darshan. Har Har Mahadev.
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YATRA GUIDES
Walking distances, darshan timings, where to stay, and how to reach — every yatra question, answered.