Somvati Amavasya 2026 falls on Monday, 9 November, the morning after Diwali, and Ujjain's Shipra ghats fill from before dawn. The Amavasya tithi runs until about 12:30 pm, so the snan, tarpan and daan all happen before noon, with Mahakal darshan either side of it. From Indore it is a 55 km pre-dawn drive; here is the hour-by-hour.
An Amavasya that falls on a Monday is a Somvati Amavasya, and it comes only two or three times a year. Monday is Shiva's day, so the new-moon snan and the Jyotirlinga darshan fall together. In 2026 it also lands the morning after Diwali, which is why Ujjain will be fuller than on a normal Somvati.
The observances are simple and all of them are morning rites:
Snan in a sacred river at first light, while the tithi runs.
Tarpan for ancestors with water and black sesame, at the ghat or at Siddhavat.
Peepal parikrama, 108 rounds, with a thread tied by married women.
Daan of food, white cloth, rice, curd or sesame, and a one-meal vrat for those who keep it.
Shiva pooja, which in Ujjain means Mahakal himself.
Ujjain has all of it within one kilometre: Ram Ghat on the Shipra, the Harsiddhi lane and Mahakaleshwar at the top of it. That is why a Somvati morning here feels like a small Simhastha.
Panchangs put the Amavasya tithi from about 11:28 am on Sunday 8 November to about 12:30 pm on Monday 9 November. The minutes shift a little by city, so check the panchang your family follows. The rites are done while the tithi is on, which means the morning of the 9th.
| Time on 9 November | What to do |
|---|---|
| 5:30–7:00 am | Snan at Ram Ghat as the sky lightens |
| 7:00–8:00 am | Tarpan at the ghat, or Siddhavat (about 6 km) for pind daan |
| 8:00 am–12 noon | Mahakal darshan, then Harsiddhi Mata on the walk back |
| about 12:30 pm | Tithi ends; Govardhan Pooja and Annakut follow on the next tithi |
The day before matters too. Diwali is Sunday 8 November, when Mahakal's ubtan and the early Bhasma Aarti draw lakhs; our Diwali day plan covers that morning. Rooms within a kilometre of Mahakal Lok sell out for the whole week.
Indore to Ujjain is about 55 km, 1.5 to 2 hours in daytime traffic and nearer an hour at 3 am. The new six-lane highway is due only in January 2027, so for this Amavasya you are on the existing road through Sanwer. Leave Indore by 3:30 am to be on the ghat steps before 5:30.
By taxi: door to ghat, the driver waits, and you are back in Indore for lunch. The option most families take on a snan morning.
By train: the first Indore–Ujjain passengers reach Ujjain Junction, 3 km from the ghat, after sunrise. Fine for darshan, late for the snan.
By bus: regular from Sarwate and Gangwal stands, but festival-morning queues are long and the bus stops short of the closures.
Ram Ghat is Ujjain's main bathing ghat, about 1 km from Mahakaleshwar and 3 km from the station. The bathing steps run along the east bank; Datt Akhada ghat is across the footbridge and is calmer for families. Somtirth Kund beside the ghat is where the administration sets up fountain bathing whenever the river is unsafe.
On snan parvs Narmada water is released into the Shipra, and the November level is low and calm. Safety chains run along the underwater steps. Changing rooms are temporary tents, so carry a dry set and a towel in one small bag.
Reach by 5:30 am; the steps fill fast once the sky lightens.
Women use the Datt Akhada side or the tented enclosures; men bathe along the central steps.
Keep valuables with one family member on the upper steps. Thefts at Ram Ghat during snan have been reported on earlier Somvati mornings.
The ghat's own evening aarti is at about 6 pm in November, if you stay the day.
Mahakal opens around 4 am with the Bhasma Aarti until 6 am, and stays open to 11 pm. The online Bhasma Aarti pass for 9 November opened 30 days earlier at 8 am, and the tatkal quota opens at 8 am on the 8th.
After a Diwali the committee can suspend online booking, as it did in the New Year week, so plan for the day-ahead route only.
| Queue | Cost | Typical wait on a festival morning |
|---|---|---|
| Free general darshan | nil | 2–3 hours, with a 2.5 km Triveni-side walk on closure days |
| Sheeghra Darshan, Gate 4 | ₹250 | 45–90 minutes |
| Seated Sandhya Aarti | ₹250, booked online from 12 noon | entry by 6 pm, aarti around 7 pm |
The Garbhagriha is closed to all on heavy days; you see the Jyotirlinga from the Nandi hall. Do the snan first and the darshan second. The queue is shortest between 8 and 10 am, once the Bhasma Aarti crowd has left and before the late risers arrive.
With elderly parents: taxi at 3:30 am, snan from the upper steps of Datt Akhada ghat, Sheeghra Darshan at Mahakal, home by 1 pm. Skip Siddhavat.
For tarpan or pind daan: go to Siddhavat, about 6 km from Mahakal, where the pandits sit from dawn. Take Mahakal after 10 am.
On a budget: the first bus from Indore, snan, the free queue, and the bus back. Carry food; the lanes near the temple are packed.
Staying the night: sleep in Ujjain on the 8th, do the Bhasma Aarti on the 9th, then the snan. Book now, as Diwali-week rooms are nearly gone.
Avoid: arriving after 9 am expecting to bathe. The tithi ends at noon and the last two hours at the ghat are the most crowded.
The Amavasya opens Kartik's bright half, and Ujjain stays busy for a fortnight. Govardhan Pooja and Annakut follow on the next tithi, 9 or 10 November depending on the panchang, with Bhai Dooj the day after.
The first Kartik Sawari of Mahakal goes out on Monday 16 November, and Kartik Purnima on the 24th belongs to Omkareshwar. Our Nov–Dec crowd calendar lists every heavy day.
For a Monday-morning snan, sleep in Ujjain on Sunday night within a kilometre of Mahakal Lok, so the ghat is a walk and no taxi has to cross the closures. Diwali-week rooms are booked weeks ahead. If nothing is left, Indore is the base, and a 3:30 am start does the job.
Bathe while the tithi holds, take darshan when the queue thins, and let Monday be Mahakal's. Har Har Mahadev.
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